With a child starting school in September, we knew that time was ticking to enjoy one last getaway before becoming beholden to the stark reality of school-holiday pricing. When considering which destination would be the best for a family holiday with a three-year-old, we were quite open, but thought it would be nice to avoid the soporific haze of the traditional resort routine - buffet-to-lounger-to-pool-to-buffet. A conversation with my colleague, Alan, brought the suggestion of trying the Alps in summer. And that, in turn, led us to NesslerHoff in Grossarl, Austria.
Owned by the Neudegger Family, the hotel positions itself as a family-friendly, 5-star wellness destination with gourmet dining, all ideally located for year-round alpine adventures. The hotel looks quite large in the pictures, so I wondered how the warm, family welcome would translate with scale, especially when arriving with an ahem active three-year-old boy in tow.
We set off for London Stansted, short flight to Salzburg ahead, with the usual trepidation of a significant journey with a youngster. We made it through a very busy terminal unscathed and boarded the plane. Upon arrival, we sorted out the rental car and headed off for our one-hour journey south to Grossarl. From door to door, the journey passed very easily, mostly down to the convenient flight times (thanks again, Alan). We arrived at the hotel far less frazzled than one might expect for a first flight with a three-year-old.
I would like to set out as clearly as I can that we paid for our holiday, and travelled as a normal family (not as part of any promotional activity) because it is from here that writing my blog gets tricky...you see, I have worked within travel marketing for the best part of two decades. I have seen roughly 27 billion hotel/operator websites, brochures, reels, promo videos, editorial pieces, advertorial articles, etcetera, etcetera. I am also highly fortunate to class myself as well-travelled. Now, I am not saying I've become a jaded, cynical, mid-forties grump, snow-blind to slow-motion panning shots of swimming pools, soundtracked exclusively by either ambient synth or a ukulele, but I am also not NOT saying that.
So, with that said, everything that the hotel Nesslerhoff projects is true. Each word. I do not think I have ever encountered that before. Genuinely. I hope you'll agree it's fair to assume we all go on holiday with an unspoken understanding that "it won't look exactly like the pictures", or "my plate of food won't be that perfect". It did and it was.
We were staying in one of the Harmonie rooms. It featured a large bed, a good-sized bathroom, loads of storage, and, importantly, an additional room for my son. This featured an enclosed double bed, which he absolutely loved, additional storage, and a second large TV (which remarkably we never used). The balcony was a very good size and perfect to enjoy a quiet evening with a glass or two, once the lad was asleep. The view was gorgeous, across the pool to the mountains beyond. We immediately felt at home. We unpacked. I never unpack.
The food was incredible. Breakfast was an impressive array of fruits, cereals, meats, cheeses, and breads on top of your choice from the menu. I tended to opt for two fried eggs and bacon; my wife opted for omelettes; the little one simply mainlined everything within his radius: crepes, scrambled eggs, kiwis, pears, and hot chocolate. Each day, the restaurant opened again for the 'Afternoon snack', which changed daily and drew a crowd of guests in their complimentary robes. (A sidepoint: this is something I've never really embraced before. I have never actually worn a hotel robe outside of my room. Perhaps it's my inherent Britishness that has previously stood in my way, but at Nesslerhoff everything feels so relaxed that it seemed ridiculous to not wander around in my dressing gown at a wellness retreat.)
Each evening, we'd return to our table excited to see the day's offering (we were sat in a section with all guests with young children, which brought a communal sense of relaxation). The menu changed daily, with multiple options and up to five courses. And they were all genuinely great. There is a strong focus on locally sourced produce and it was outstanding quality. Standouts for me were the duck breast and monkfish with bean cassoulet. The wine selection is immense, if pricey, but the staff made great recommendations to match our budget.
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We spent a large amount of time playing in the two swimming pools. There is a heated indoor/outdoor pool (with a button-operated divider) which was always pristine and a perfect temperature. The jet bubble areas provided all the younger guests much joy! My wife and I would 'tag in' so we could both enjoy the second outdoor natural pool. Too cold for the kids, but perfect for the grown-ups: a peaceful moment to swim and cool down from the summer heat. There is also a well-stocked playroom, featuring a soft play area, touchscreen gaming machine, and tabletop games. I thought this would be a godsend, but we only went in there once whilst first exploring; the pool provided the lion's share of the entertainment (and I will admit, there was an iPad on a sunlounger at times!). I feel that we only scratched the surface of the hotel facilities. Should it have been only my wife and I, we would have, no doubt, explored all of the five saunas, yoga classes, and treatments. But we were more than happy with the family-friendly offerings.
In terms of location, Grossarl provides everything you would need in walking distance. We ventured out to enjoy a cable-car trip up the mountain, local playgrounds, and shops. The hotel staff were brilliant with helping us choose excursions slightly further afield, pointing us towards a gorgeous waterfall about 20 minutes' drive away, and recommending a hiking spot suitable for our son, complete with maps. That recommendation led us to the Mooslehenalm alpine refuge. It sounds rather rugged, but it was actually a lovely restaurant, with rabbits, goats, and even a trampoline in the mountain forest. The drive to the starting car park was a touch daunting (we were in the Alps after all) but very doable.
Throughout our stay, the staff were impeccable: welcoming, kind, approachable, and nothing seemed like a chore, especially when nursing our poor attempts at German (of course, the majority of Brits accept that a trip in Europe comes as standard with the humbling embarrassment of our lackadaisical approach to learning our neighbours' languages).
This brings me back to my initial thought about whether the 'family welcome' would translate to a largish hotel. It 100% does. We saw the Neudegger family multiple times throughout each day. Always calm, always smiling, and, more to the point, always working with gentle purpose. From breakfast until night, they were visible and on hand. It was remarkable. I simply cannot recommend this hotel enough. We will undoubtedly return, and I urge you to look this place up.